Growing FAQs

Grow delicious chillies with confidence using our expert advice! 

Q: What variety of chilli plant should I grow?

A: We are often asked this, and we start by asking: how do you plan to use the chillies you grow?

Looking for compact pot plant chillies for a windowsill?

Some of the best for this are Thai Hot, Pretty Purple and Apache. 

Want something perfect for making salsa, pickling, mild sauces and stuffing?

Great varieties for this are Santa Fe Grande, Jalapeno and Cherry Bomb. 

Need something milder?

Poblano and Anaheim are great for Mexican stuffed chilli recipes.

Fancy something very hot for cooking with? 

Any of the Habaneros, Ring of Fire and Aji Limon are all great for cooking hot dishes – for extremely hot, try the Bhut Jolokia.

Sturdy plants for a British patio? 

We recommend a plant with smaller fruits or pliable stems to prevent too much damage from rough weather. Twilight, Aji Limon and Firecracker are good choices. Other varieties may need some support from canes.

Which plants are best for pretty hanging baskets? 

At the farm, we often plant hanging baskets for a summer display with Super, Apache, Thai Hot, Firecracker, Pretty Purple and Purple Tiger.

Germination

Q: What is the best time of year to start sowing in the UK?

A: March is best for sowing chilli seeds. You can sow earlier, but you may need a heated propagator.

Q: How late in the Spring can I sow chilli seeds?

A: This depends on the variety, and at what stage you will pick the fruits.
For smaller, quick growing plants and for varieties that are used 'green', you can sow as late as June in the UK. The hotter varieties which are mostly used when ripe need a longer growing time and are best sown earlier.

If you do miss the main sowing time, all chillies are perennial, so, if kept frost-free over winter, they will get you off to a quick start in the following season. 

There are some advantages to sowing in late spring/early summmer:

1. There is less need for a heated propagator.
2. The seedlings and plants will come on quickly due to the warmer conditions and longer day length.

The advantage of sowing early in the year is that you can maximize the crop from multiple harvests.

Q: My seeds have not germinated. What went wrong?

A: Chilli seeds need a steady temperature of 25c to 28c to germinate and they also need a good quality seed compost - fine material, good drainage and not too high in nitrogen. The seeds should also be kept moist (if they are allowed to dry out, germination can be erratic), but not too wet (which can cause imbibition issues). If the growing conditions are not ideal, they may take a long time to germinate – they can still germinate up to a month after sowing.

At the farm, we sow into Vermiculite with the seeds about 5mm below the surface and put the trays in a heated propagator. From sowing, we surface water with a dilute solution of Chilli Focus in a fine spray.

In these conditions, we expect most of the seed to germinate within two weeks, but a few varieties take longer.

Q: I have used ‘plugs’ and I have sown two seeds in each. What should I do if both germinate?

A: Let them un-curl their false leaves, then pinch out the weaker one.

Q: My seedlings are collapsing after germination and dying. What am I doing wrong?

A: This is known as damping-off and is the work of fungi or fungus-like organisms that were present in the compost, or migrated there. This problem can affect seeds, seedlings and plants. The fungi thrive in cool, humid conditions. Prevention is the best defence:

• Use good quality seed compost
• Keep the compost warm while still keeping good air circulation
• Avoid overwatering  - which cools the compost and increases humidity
• Use new pots/trays when sowing or decontaminate thoroughly 
• Use tap water or fresh rain water
• To avoid the problem spreading to healthy seedlings, remove any affected plants.

Q: I have germinated in a warm cupboard and the seedlings are now very leggy; what should I do?

A: A warm cupboard is a great place to encourage germination, but check them every day to see if they have sprouted. As soon as they emerge, move them into sunlight so that they can start generating food. 

If they are very leggy and floppy, prick them out into individual pots and replant them deeper into the soil, so that there is a 1cm gap from the compost surface to the first leaves; this will make them more stable and less likely to be damaged by watering.

Seedling problems 

Q: My chilli seedlings are leggy; what should I do?

A: Move your chilli seedlings to a brighter spot. You can also move pots further apart from each other to provide more all-round light. With better light and less crowding, they should stabilise. 

If you still have leggy plants when you pot-on, they can be replanted to a new soil level; burying part of the stem to stabilise the plant. 

Chilli plants that want to be big (like Padron peppers) will need better light than small plants (like Prairie Fire), so if you only have a small area with good light, use that area for your larger plants

Q: When using your plugs, how should I sow the seeds and pot them on?

A: At the farm, when we sow chilli seeds into plugs, we sow two seeds per plug and pick-out the weaker seedlings to leave just one per plug. Once the seedlings have three true sets of leaves, we pot-on into a 1 litre/6 inch pot.

Potting on and Pot Size 

Q: What pot sizes should I use for chilli plants?

A: Use a 3” (7.5cm) pot for the first transplant, and then using progressively larger pots as the chilli plant develops.

Our experience is that the plants do better with a gradual size increase, rather than potting on into a pot that is much larger than the plant needs.

The final pot size will depend on the growing conditions, the variety of chilli and where the plant is being grown.

Q: What compost should I use?

A: There are several brands available in garden centres for a compost made to the John Innes #2 formula. This is a soil-based compost with good drainage, suitable pH and a good level of nutrients. 

Soil-based composts are also easy to re-wet when dry, and are still heavy when dry (which avoids problems with pots blowing over or being knocked over).

At the farm we use peat-free compost, but we do find that this sometimes dries out more quickly than peat compost. 

Watering and Feeding

Q: What should I feed my chilli plants, and how often?

A: We recommend Chilli Focus. A weak solution should be used initially (see bottle for guidelines), building up as the plant matures. A weekly feed is usually sufficient.

Q: What type of plant food do chilli plants like?

A: The best approach is to use a balanced feed, but one that has a good quantity of potash (potassium) to encourage flowering and fruiting. We use Chilli Focus which is formulated for chilli plants.

Q: Can I use an automatic watering system?

A: Yes, you can. We recommend that the compost contain a significant amount of drainage matter, such as perlite, to help keep air around the roots.

You can make a simple auto-watering system by placing pots on a platform over a water tray. Feed a thin strip of capillary matting into the pot from the base and trail into the water tray.

Q: How often should I water my plants?

A: Chilli plants enjoy a good watering followed by a period without water – until the compost is almost dry. Select a compost with good drainage to help keep air in the soil and avoid the pot standing in water.

If the underside of leaves develop oedema (white ‘fluff’ or crystals), that is a sign that the plant has too much water at the roots.

Q: Should I water from the top or the base?

A: If you can, water from the top, near to the base of the plant. Avoid wetting the leaves or flowers as they are the most susceptible parts of the plant to disease, which thrive in moist conditions.  

Watering filtering down from above allows fresh air to be drawn into the soil, which is essential for healthy root growth. 

Avoid the plant sitting in water for long periods of time as this will damage the lower roots.

Growing outdoors

Q: Can I grow chilli plants in a pot outside on a patio?

A: Yes you can, as long as there is no risk of frost. Our tips to get the best from outdoor chilli plants:

• Go big on the drainage in the compost to prevent roots being waterlogged
• Use black pots – they help to keep the compost warm
• Use rain guards around the plant base to deflect heavy rain
• Bring pots indoors during bad weather
• Use soil-based compost (heavy, so less likely to blow over)
• Select small/light fruited varieties (less likely to get damaged in bad weather)
• Pick the fruits green to maximise the crop (expect a lower yield compared to greenhouse growing)
• Support plants with canes
• Place in a warm, sheltered spot

Growing hydroponically and under artificial lighting

Q: Do chillies grow well under artificial lights?

A: Although we don’t use artificial light at the farm, we have heard from customers that chillies grow very well to these growing systems. As they are light-hungry plants, stronger lighting systems would work best.

Q: Can I grow chillies hydroponically?

A: Yes, we have experimented with this at the farm using aerated ‘water-bath’ feeding/growing systems, and it works very well.

Plants can also be grown in inert material with drip-fed water and nutrients. If you don’t have access to a garden, hydroponics is a good alternative, particularly if youwant to grow larger varieties.

Flowering and Fruiting

Q: Does it help to hand-pollinate chilli flowers?

A: Chillies have ‘perfect flowers’, meaning they don’t need help from another plant or pollinating insects to set fruits.

In our crop tunnels, we don’t hand pollinate, but there is some pollination by bees and hoverflies in the polytunnels. The vast majority of our crop is from self-pollinated flowers.

Chilli plants usually produce an abundance of flowers – more than they need or could sustain if they all turned to fruits.

That said, if you want to try hand pollinating to help things along, use a fine art brush.

Q: I am having problems with fruit yield; how do I improve the cropping?

A:  Ensure a warm night-time temperature (comfortably over 15c).

Avoid periods of extreme heat in the day. Over 40c will cause flowers to abort. 25c is ideal.

Too much nitrogen can cause the plant for forget to flower. Too little potash can cause set flowers to abort (try our Chilli Focus feed). 

Your soil may also be too wet - or if the plant is outside it may be too windy. 

Picking

Q: My chilli fruits have black marks on, is that a problem?

A: As long as the fruits are firm, the black is just an early sign of ripening – Jalapeno in particular often has black streaks before ripening - we call this "corking".  

We sometime get the same question concerning black marks around the divisions in plant stems; this is very common and not a problem.

Q: How long before I can pick fruit?

A: From sowing, chilli plants vary from about 80 to 120 days to fruit being ready. If you are using the unripe (green) fruit, the time will be reduced. 

Q: When should I pick the fruit on my plant?

A: For maximum productivity, pick fruits as soon as they are the size and colour you want.

We pick a lot of green chillies, like Ring of Fire, Jalapeno, Poblano and Hungarian Hot Wax. These varieties are traditionally used green/unripe. Once fruits are picked, plants will form new flowers and fruits. 

If you are looking to cook with fresh or dried brightly coloured chillies, pick the fruits as soon as they reach the ripe colour.

Q: Are any chillies ripe when green?

A: No, they all turn to either Red, Orange, Yellow, Brown or white to ripen. Some varieties go through several colours, and some develop ‘black’ marks prior to ripening. Ripening tends to accelerate at the end of the growing season.

Pests

Q: How do I control Spider Mites on my chilli plants?

A: Spider mites can be a problem during hot, dry weather. These conditions increase the lifecycle of Spider Mites, allowing them to get to such large numbers that they harm the plant. The signs to look out for are a very fine web on the under-side of leaves, and ‘windows’ that can be seen from the top of leaves.

Spider Mites can be controlled by regular spray or water on the under-side of the leaves, or by using a non-toxic spray, like the SB Invigorator we sell.

You can also cut off the heavily infested section of the plant to stop the spread.

Q: How do I control aphids on my chilli plants?

A: If you look on the under-side of the leaves, you may spot greenfly (aphids). The easiest way to clear the plant is to take it outside (or away from its normal growing area); tip the plant so you can see the under-side of the leaves, and gently brush them off.

If there are a few aphids, they can be individually picked off and squished. If you repeat this for a few days, you should bring the infestation under control. 

In extreme cases you can buy pest sprays from the garden centre or our growing shop. 

White ‘flies’ on the top of the leaves are probably shed skins of aphids, and will wash off with a hand-sprayer.

Q: My plant has yellow leaves. What’s wrong with it?

A: The usual causes and cures are listed below:

• Poor drainage - If the plant is in very wet soil, it will not be able to take up nutrients properly. Re-pot into free-draining compost and allow to dry out. Avoid the plant sitting in water
• Poor soil or feed - Compost or feed low in essential nutrients (Nitrogen in particular) can make leaves pale. Re-pot into good quality compost or try a new feed.
• Pest attack - Inspect the plant carefully for pests, especially on the underside of leaves. Use the recommended treatment (see above) and feed the plant to help it recover.
• Viruses and bacteria - Plants that have been attacked by a pest can sometimes succumb to a virus. If the pests and affected leaves are removed, the plant can often be saved.

Pruning and training

Q: Do I need to prune my chilli plants to get a good crop?

A: We don't prune our crop plants at the farm but we do sometimes prune our nursery plants.

Pruning to re-shape a plant may be needed if it has grown a little too much towards a bright window, or to remove dead growth while over wintering a plant.

If you provide good spacing and good light, chilli plants should develop into a natural bush shape.

Q: Can I train my chilli plants like tomatoes?

A: If you wanted to train the plants into a more vertical shape, then pruning out the side shoots would be necessary. This is a technique used by large greenhouse pepper growers to maximize the area under glass.

Over-wintering

Q: I would like to keep my chilli plant over winter, what should I do?

A: Chilli plants stop growing and flowering during the winter months in the UK, but they can be treated as perennial house plants.

Large varieties will need pruning. You can lightly prune to re-shape the plant, or heavily prune on the main stem. If the plant grew to an ideal size this year for you, then a hard prune should allow it to re-grow with the same fruit cover and size the following season.

Keep the compost just off dry while the plant is dormant and keep it somewhere light, but not with extremes of temperature. 

In the UK, overwintered plants may start to become active in  April, depending on where they are kept. Fresh compost in the Spring will help to get them going.

Preserving Chillies

Q: How do I dry the chillies I have grown?

A: Drying chillies is more about air circulation than heat, so place them in a well-aired basket and put them somewhere warm – such as over a radiator. Spread the chillies in a thin layer and leave the stalks attached. They should dry out in a few days.

Chillies with thick flesh (like Jalapenos) are not a good choice for drying. A thin-fleshed chilli, like Ring of Fire, is a good chilli to dry.

Once dry, store in an airtight glass jar or tin, and keep out of sunlight to preserve the colour and flavour.

Q: Can I freeze chillies?

A: Yes, they freeze very well. They don’t lose any heat and are easier to chop finely when frozen. To save space in your freezer, chop chillies (by hand or in a food processor) before freezing and store in thin slabs or ice-cube trays.

Saving Seed

Q: I would like to collect and save chilli seed for next season, do you have any tips?

A: The ideal time to pick a chilli for seed is just as it reaches its ripe colour. Cut the fruit open and with a blunt instrument and scrape the seeds out onto paper.

Place the seeds in a warm spot in indirect sunlight until they dry – this will prevent them developing mould. 

Wrap the seeds in foil and place inside a closed tin or glass jar. Store in a cool place. The fridge is good if you want to keep the seed for several years, but they should be fine anyway for a few years if they are dried out before storing.

Testing Chilli Heat

Q: How can I test the heat of my chillies?

A: The heat is in the spongy material that the seeds are connected to.

To compare the heat of one hot chilli to another, you can liquidize a whole fruit in a set amount of water (say, 1 litre) and then taste a teaspoon of the water to gauge the heat.

Without a laboratory it is impossible to accurately rate the heat of a chilli.